Uncovering Utrecht- (12-15/09)

Houten is a small town in the middle of Holland and I stayed there for a couple of days to catch up with some family friends who I hadn’t seen since in too long but also to have a good look around what is widely considered Amsterdam’s biggest rival for best city in Holland, Utrecht (and some of the province that is named after it). These are just a few of my finds...

The Dom Tower:

This was particularly easy to find since it is the highest tower in the Netherlands, a lovely 112 metres adrift from Utrecht’s streets and canals. I arrived on the hour for an hour long guided tour (the only way to access the tower) and being the only English one there it was effectively private! Stopping at various points on the way up we were able to see and hear the gigantic bells within the tower and learn of the construction of the Dom Church, eventful to say the least, in Dutch and then in English. But universal to all was the spectacular view from the top...

Countless Canals:

Clear as day from the top of the Dom Tower and indeed anywhere in Utrecht are its countless canals. I decided to buy a small walking guide for the canals and uncovered the varying characteristics and ambiance that each harbour, indeed not so obvious to the uninformed observer. But perhaps what is unmatched anywhere else is in the Netherlands are the wharves and wharf cellars of the canals, donned with tables and chairs by the dozen. A free but beautiful site.

Spelklok Museum:

Occasionally at the numerous bridges which connect each street over its parallel canal will stand a small crowd encircling a man aggressively shaking a collection tin, sometimes a stationary horse and (the main reason why they are there) a huge playing street organ. The cheerful, melodic music is so loud that you simply can’t avoid them. I went on a tour around Utrecht’s Spelklok museum to explore further the rather alien world (to me at least) of automatic musical instruments. The attention to detail in each of the instruments was staggering. Well worth a visit.

Rietveld-Schröderhuis:

In a sense the attention to detail of the instruments was mirrored in a minimalistic little house, the Rietveld-Schröderhuis, which has become famous over the years in Utrecht for its association with the start of the art movement, De Stijl (‘The Style’). Although modern in appearance the house is pretty old and is actually falling apart, perhaps since its designer was more a furniture designer than an architect. Nonetheless a really interesting example of form being defined by function: in particular the use of partitioning to adapt the families living style in an effectively wall-less space. No photos were allowed inside but if you want a feel for what it looked like it's often said that a chair, located inside, sums it up.

Dick Bruna Huis:

The home of Nijntje, or Miffy, is a great place for children but also for anyone intrigued in graphic art or design. After many a concerted effort, there were a lot of Chinese tourists, I was able to see copies of some of the original books by Dick Bruna and the extensive translations as well as the first editions of Miffy and progressively Miffy’s friends. An interactive section also allowed you to listen to the stories and observe the process in which Miffy is created. Not just a simply drawn rabbit as many think but rather a collation of areas of block coloured card and an overlain black stencil print. Certainly reminiscent of some of the works in the Utrecht Centraal Museum and, in my opinion, Henri Matisse’s later work.

Kasteel de Haar:

Within the province of Utrecht but not the city itself lies a fairy-tale castle, park, ponds and grounds called Kasteel de Haar. A simple train from Utrecht Centraal Station and a 20min local bus ride through the picturesque village of Haarzuilens was all that was required to find it. Covering over 135 acres of land the grounds were a great place for a stroll, fortunately the weather had picked up for my visit! The castle itself had over 200 rooms and so was well worth a tour. I was astounded to find out that the place was only used by the affluent Van Zuylen family for one month a year, a time where they invite only the most famous of guests to wine and dine. Once more no photos inside!