Stuck in Zeist (27/08)

Zeist is a small Wassenaar-like town in the middle of Holland near to the city of Utrecht. In order to get there, and I say this with great pride, I succeeded in catching 2 correct trains and 2 correct buses. The weather, which was dismal over the weekend, had fortunately dissipated so a walk around the beautiful twin squares, the Zuster en Broederplein, was possible. The squares, possessing affluent manor houses, were located on either side of the central street, itself adorned with bright pot plants and conifers. They prepared the way if you like to the Slot Zeist, the largest house of them all, which stood centrally ahead of the squares, proudly overlooking the street into the town centre.

There was certainly an aristocratic aloofness to the Slot Zeist since to enter its grounds one had to cross a single bridge. Nevertheless the little island was superb and the view beyond the lake around it, equally so. Much of the building was undergoing construction work but that didn’t detract from its kinship to nature. It was easy to lose track of time. Indeed when I headed back to the bridge at 5pm it was locked. Quickly I circled the grounds but all the machinery was now abandoned. Hoping I wasn’t totally alone on the island I ran back to where I’d passed an old lady sitting and was oh-so relieved to find her there once more. Together we paced the grounds and pondered as to how we could get across the water. In the end I dialled 112, she spoke. After an hour, by which time I’d grown rather fond of the lady who had funnily enough been an au pair herself in Paris in her youth, the police arrived with a single key to open the gate. Over we crossed. I must admit I was a little bit jittery as the doors of the train closed on my return...how bizarre.  

Now That's What I Call Art (26/08)

Strolling around rows upon rows of antique stalls on the Lange Voorhout was a lovely way to spend the Sunday morning. There were tiny silver spoons and golden earring all piled in glass cabinets, streams of delicately hung vintage clothing, orderly placed items of heavy mahogany furniture, well-worn newspapers and postcards from times gone by and so much more. The magnitude of stalls and utter depth of antiques meant that before I knew it afternoon was approaching. Having also looked around the experimental sculptures which decorated the market I was totally in the mood for more art.

Air and Water, Escher

I visited the Eschermusuem, a former palace on the Lange Voorhurt holding a vast number of infamous works by M. C. Escher (a Dutch graphic artist). There was  a technical, even mathematical, nature to his work which when combined with his meticulous realism produced amazing optical illusions and astounding metamorphoses.  A practical workshop on the highest floor of the gallery laid out how such effects were made and how, because you did need convincing, the images he created were simply not possible. These ahead-of-their-time wood-cuttings and lithographs were all showcased against the backdrop of a traditional palace yet modern, sensational chandeliers by artist Hans van Bentem hung in each chamber.

Now That's What I Call Art.  

Hague Hype (25/08)

It calls itself the liveliest part of Den Haag (The Hague). Not really surprising then to hear that the Grote Markt is a large central square filled with clubs, bars, cafes and restaurants. It's probably true. The place was packed with people sitting, relaxing, drinking and chatting under the yellow glows of the lampposts that kept the square from complete darkness as the night progressed. Fortunately for me the casual atmosphere was reflected in outfits, I’m not much of a dresser-upper. At midnight we thought we’d go to the Supermarkt, not because we were in need of a few food essentials...but on a recommendation that it was a good club (even if it does have a strange name). Although the dance floor was excruciatingly slow to fill up the DJ did mix well. The tunes were ones which I, as an English girl, could happily sing-a-long to with only a couple of European-sounding numbers making the playlist and even those were sung in English! All in all it was a fun evening and well rounded off when at 2:30 we watched masses of people, upon leaving the club, all shakily mount their bikes to head home. That would just never happen in England.

Wassenaar by Night (24/08)

Thought I’d give the nightlife in Wassenaar a chance on Friday but I wasn’t harbouring much hope. I knew that it was not going to be as large or commercialised as was Noordwijk since there wasn’t an event on as such. I also knew that Wassenaar itself boasts only 2 potential venues. Actually make that 1. It is well known locally that one is just for the school kids. So I knew I didn’t really have a choice of clubs! Nevertheless I went with 3 other au pairs (a Czech, a Latvian and a South African), sorry I just love the international appeal of the job, who all assured me that they had spent many a good nights here. Whilst the night revealed my previous qualms to be true, adding to them a deepened hatred of smokers, it also proved to be good honest fun. I mean naturally we were the only ones dancing since the Dutch shun the ‘club’ culture in favour of ‘pub’ drinking and we were probably the only girls, definitely the only people under 30 of the very scarce number inside. But I reckon I’d do it again.

Daydreaming in Delft (23/08)

A lovely historical city surrounded by canals and laden with side streets and stalls, bicycles and bridges! Embodied by the busy morning at the large market square separating the Town Hall, Nieuwe and the Oude Kerk which was in full-swing as I parked my bike after a rather traumatic 20km ride. I visited both churches. Impressive both inside and out. Indeed the former held the grave of William of Orange, only the ‘Father of the Fatherland’ and the later that of Johannes Vermeer, a world famous painter considered a true master of light. Being the art lover that I am I had to pay a visit to the Vermeer Centrum where a replica timeline of all his works, an astonishingly small amount, mounts the walls. Further rooms explored the techniques of the Delft painter whose rather mysterious life leaves still much to uncover.

But perhaps Delft’s most well-known influence on the Netherlands today is through its pottery: the characteristic blue and white ceramics are rooted in the city and found alongside copies of Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring and The Milkmaid in almost every shop. I also went to see the Botanical Gardens where a thatched viewing tower produced a beautiful view over Delft's greenery. Not to be out done, the view from the top of the Nieuwe Kerk was spectacular in its urban complexion. In case you’re wondering a trip up the Oude Kerk tower was not possible as it actually resembles the Leaning Tower of Pisa in structure! Everywhere I went I found myself daydreaming about living in Delft.                    

Noordwijk Nightlife (18/08)

Used my OV card for the first time to get to Noordwijk! It turns out I can function on public transport and arrive places not looking really red and sweaty, always good when meeting new people! Not sure how much use that was though as after a couple of hours on a packed out beach that was my predicament. Needless to say it was scorching. Anyway after refreshments and food we headed to the first Full Moon Party to be held in Noordwijk, at the Beachclub De Klink. Basically an outdoor beach party. There we were 4 au pairs: a German, a Canadian, an American and me in a Dutch club at 10pm.

It wasn’t too surprising to find that the various rooms were filled to bursting with people dancing, talking and drinking but since most of it was in open air, and some of it actually on the beach, I didn’t actually find myself feeling too claustrophobic. Regardless there was techno music, much like that which they play in Berlin clubs, but also the more typically Dutch house music, pounding out of the speakers to keep me from thoughts of heat and space! All in all I thought it was pretty awesome! Next morning, a little bit of post party relaxation on the beach: the life.

Seeing Scheveningen (17/08)

Next on my list, Scheveningen. An area north of Den Haag it is in the opposite direction to Noordwijk but still along the beloved Dutch coast. Once more I took a beautiful coastal path through the dunes of around 15km. To reach the cycle path I cut through perhaps one of the richest areas of Wassenaar and felt like an intruder as I gazed upon large imposing facades and pearly gates with lawns humongous in size and style.

The view along Scheveningen was a different story! On my right the sand was occupied almost completely by rickety beach bars and quirky clubs and, on my left, the road was coated with tiered hotels, restaurants and museums. A real Dutch seaside resort. Nothing like the vastness of the Wassenaar elite. The boulevard itself was sprinkled with seating areas and intriguing sculptures, a series by an American sculptor along the theme of fairytales particularly caught my eye. The hustle and bustle continued all the way up to the harbours where boats, great and small, were moored tip to tip. Bikes a plenty.

In search of tranquility I settled in the nearby Westbroekpark. An area of true natural beauty. Reminiscient of Monet’s garden in the bridges that crossed the streams. From there I headed to the area of Scheveningen beach known for being a bit quieter, the Zwarte Pad, for a spot of sunbathing before I tackled the ride back.

Sun, sand, sea... flowers and history! (11-12/08)

Nothing quite like the sea breeze running through your hair as you cycle on the sand-clad paths that pave the way through the dunes of the Dutch coastline. I had time to think this on my travels since the way to Noordwijk was so exquisitely signposted for all 18km I didn’t really need to think about where I was going! The undulating nature of the dunes did however take its toll and a rest at the beach was much needed, it seemed a lot of people had a similar idea! As I lay on my now somewhat overused beach towel photographs of me, from childhood, on that beach emerged only to fade in front of my eyes. Kind of in the way the waves gently tussled with the shore. I was actually surprised at how much I recollected of the town as I took a 4.5km walking tour to see some of Noordwijk’s historic pockets before heading back to the beach.

I had timed my visit to coincide with the Blomenfestival held annually in Noordwijk so the Oude Jereonskerk was adorned with beautiful bouquets of flowers and floral displays. In the evening, as part of the festivities, I watched a succession of elaborately decorated cars, differently themed floats and of course ridiculously happy people! As they travelled slowly through the streets the colourful and inventive displays were admired, sweets were given out, music blared, the sun set and many photos were taken! Having stayed the night with family friends I was able to further explore Noordwijk the following morning and see the floats stationary along the Koningin Wilhelmina Boulevard which runs parallel to the beach.

A visit to the Atlantikwall Museum, the Museum Noordwijk and the special tourist market held by the lighthouse on some Sundays was a lovely way to end an interesting weekend. As a cycled back I stopped off at Katwijk beach to enjoy yet more relaxation this Dutch summer.    

A Day in The Hague (10/08)

After a 12km cycle ride into Den Haag (The Hague) I was all too happy to sit and enjoy the beautiful view of the Binnenhof from the benches adhering the Hof-vijer. The sun caught the water of the central fountain beautifully and the flags of the Dutch provinces blew proudly in the breeze. An even better view was enjoyed from the window of the Haags Historisch Museum appropriately situated nearby. Inside which multitudinous paintings illustrated the development of the city into the centre of government that it is today. In fact the Queen resides not in Amsterdam but, as my trip to Koninklije Stallen and their associated gardens proved, a mere walking distance from the Binnenhof. This compelling mixture of old and new was further evident in the interior differences between the Grote Kerk and the Nieuw Kerk.

Luckily for me Den Haag was hosting ‘The Rainbow Nation’ which meant that contemporary South African sculpture was being exhibited on Lange Voorhout free to the wondering eye of the international crowd. The sculptures tracked the creativity of generations of such artists once freed from oppression and particularly the intrinsic importance of the South African identity, found in the subject matter and the materials used. Indeed the theme of identity was unavoidable as a seemingly endless stream of foreign embassies pervaded my map as I made my way to the Vredepalais where the International Court of Justice operates. It was interesting to think that each embassy I walked past had its own stone on the world peace pathway that stood outside the gates of the palace.

Last but not least I visited the Panorama Mesdag, the largest painting of the Netherlands. A total must see. The paintings great size, 360 degree complexion and sheer attention to detail created the illusion of reality. The Scheveningen landscape of 1881 which it depicted seemed tangible. The long dark corridor and stairs that made the way to the viewing hut and the central positioning of the hut itself, so that you couldn’t see the top or the bottom of the painting, undoubtedly played their part but all credit to the artist. Just wow. No photos were allowed so you'll just have to take it from me!  

A Thoughtful Tuesday (07/08)

I have been thinking a lot this week about my youth. Thus it seemed fitting to go with my Mum to look around De Kaag, a place where she used to play with her school friends. It’s a small island with around 300 inhabitants so to get there we hopped on the boat. The boat journey was less than 30 seconds but it felt like we had gone back hundreds of years. There was a sense of tranquillity in the apparent simplicity of their lifestyle: the traditional looking houses with clogs hanging by the doors, the well-trimmed gardens and the little old shops selling handmade merchandise and food. The calm currents of water which enveloped the village only supplemented my sense of peace.

It was as we walked around the village that my Mum recognised the farm in which her friend had lived, we approached in a bemused fashion to see if the family still lived there (family surnames are printed on the front doors) and they did!

We found out from her sister-in-law that Mum’s friend had died over 15 years ago from cancer. It made me think about everything that my mum left behind when she moved to England at just 19 and everything that has happened since. I felt fortunate and blessed, love you Mum!

I'm here!

All 37 shirts dresses and cardigans, 9 jumpers, 7 trousers, 6 shorts/skirts and 5 pairs of shoes have been safely put away. The walls of my room are now semi-clothed with mementos from home.

Plugged in the walls are all the pieces of technology (including a new Dutch mobile) that I have set up. My mobile now has, hopefully, all the contact information and apps that I will ever need!

In a more traditional manner a map of Wassenaar is sitting on top of the drawers next to the TV. Braving the elements, the process of village exploration by bicycle has been initiated and is starting to pay off... with help from Gijs and Caatje I was able to find the library this morning and even got myself a nice book to read whilst the kids played on the Wii. You read correctly, they have a Wii in the library. They also have a cinema, tents with soft play equipment, a mini aquarium and a wall of mirrors!