A bit of history- (08/06)

Getting around the river Ijssel we intended to spend the day in Arnhem but with yet another puncture we were forced to stop in the city of Doesburg. As we tried to enter the high-street we were (and I kid you not) stopped by medieval guards who informed us that bikes were not allowed. Having explained the situation we were then escorted by guard to the bike shop beyond the gate. Turns out the town was having its annual medieval celebration, the Doesburgse Hanzefeesten. Well we thoroughly enjoyed having a look around the craftsman stalls, antique market, and traditional venders, listening to the folky live music and observing everybody’s medieval fancy-dress.  

Eventually we made it to Arnhem. A place I’ve always wanted to visit, being a bit of a history lover. We wandered through the city streets on the way to the Battle of Arnhem Museum situated intentionally within sight of the John Frost Bridge (named after the Major-General who led British forces in defence of the bridge). The museum was really interesting, mapping out the movement of Allied and Enemy forces chronologically with clips from the infamous film A Bridge too Far (although that is of course fiction). I really liked the walls displaying the feelings/accounts of German and British soldiers as well as Dutch eye-witnesses (both young and old).

If you really don’t know what I’m on about I suggest you read up on your WW2 history. Be warned though, there's no happy ending here.  

Ijssel Reunion- (07/06)

Navigating ourselves was never too difficult, we followed the LF signs and if they weren't there then often bike checkpoint numbers (or ‘knooppunts’ if you’re Dutch) were. Failing that, red-lettered signs for nearby villages or towns, with the number of km to go, could also be found. In some cases navigation was made EVEN easier by the fact that there was only one possible path. As our long day of cycling entered its final quarter this was certainly the case. Courtesy of the river Ijssel. 

The 113km river flows all the way to the Ijsselmeer* from its origins in the German Lower Rhine. By simply following the water we made it our campsite which was conveniently located along its edge.


A bit of a risky place to put a campsite if you ask me, I'm guessing the path in the photo was once accessible....

*remember that?... the area by the Afsluitdijk up in the North

Overijssel delivers- (06/06)

Making further strides through Overijssel we met its largest city, Enschede but not before a rather bizarre find. We’d been working our way steadily through a pretty dense area of forest until suddenly it completely opened up and we found ourselves encountered with something more at home in the landscapes of Africa or Asia, the Lutterzand. Dismounting our bikes, advised for your safety, we walked along the steep edge following the meandering river until the forest appeared once more. 

It was amazing to think that not a few kilometres back had we found the Denekamp. Stunning in a different way with its bustling pavilion complete with an encasing lily-clad lake, traditional watermill, lock and blossoms...      

 

No glitches- (05/06)

Another day for the landscapes. A pleasurable 90km took us to our campsite in Den Ham, now in the Dutch province of Overijssel. 

Perhaps it is worth saying that the day was actually our first since starting the trip where we suffered no bike failure. By that I mean… no long detours to find bike shops, no carrying our bikes for kilometres, no forking out for new inner tyres or frames and no relying on the good will of others. In a celebratory mood we found a nearby restaurant and treated ourselves whilst hoping against hope that it would be the first free day of many... 

Dolmen Day- (04/06)

With the turn of the week it was time to start the descent of the eastern border, stop heading north and start going south. The rays of sunshine heightened the beauty of all the flower fields and forests that we cycled through. We happily photographed them all. 

There were, however, a few points at which photographs played a more important, less leisurely, role. Along the entire route were 6 photo-points. Basically points where a photo of us and our bikes were needed to prove that we had actually completed the Ronde van Nederland properly- no cutting corners. The day heralded one of our favourite photo-points of the trip... the largest dolmen in the Netherlands. Don’t worry I also had no idea what one was before we saw it but hopefully the picture will help! Pretty impressive, no? 

Going to Groningen- (03/06)

With probably over 300km cycled we were very happy to have a day where more time was spent sightseeing than cycling. A brisk 40km under the sun bought us to the city of Groningen, the largest town of the North but definitely not what Brits would consider large. Our cycle route took us straight from the countryside into the central square with its town hall, tourist information and church all in immediate sight. 

It was really refreshing to see some youthful faces as the rural cycle routes were very much dominated by quick middle-aged professionals or meandering elderlies. Let’s just say I wasn’t at all surprised to hear that students make up around 25% of Groningen’s population! With the weather still warm we plucked up enough courage to take an evening dip in our campsites lake to top off a great day. Yet another stunning natural campsite to add to the list and not a stone's throw from a bustling city.   

Day #5- (02/06)

We’d been following LF10 since leaving Den Helder and it bought with it a noticeably greener scenery than that of our first few days. More and more wind turbines began to penetrate the increasingly flat horizons. The undulation of the coastal routes was certainly not missed! All along the Dutch western border were further opportunities to hop off to one of the Dutch islands but having already more than halved the suggested speed for completing the Ronde van Nederland we thought that 1 was enough this time.

Onward we skirted a beautifully enormous man-made lake, the Lauwersmeer, and enjoyed a free pedalo around the considerably smaller lake surrounding our secluded campsite later that day. With the setting sun came thoughts of our grandmother (our 'oma') who was born in the very province of Friesland. It's nice to know that we can now say we've been there... 

The Day of the Afsluitdijk- (01/06)

It’s no secret that the Dutch are proud of their water management and the Afsluitdijk, constructed between 1927 and 1933, is the jewel in their crown. With its completion the damming transformed the ‘Southern Sea’ into the fresh water lake of Ijsselmeer so with that on our right and the North Sea on our left we set off down it. The dyke/motorway is 32km long and it helpfully bought us from the province of North Holland to that of Friesland. It was certainly the toughest day of cycling with heavy winds and rain bringing us to frequent stand stills with little place to shelter. Once the dyke was behind us a hot chocolate in Harlingen proved enough to get our ragged selves the last 30km to our campsite. What a way to start the month.

- Due to weather conditions no photos of ours truly represented its outrageous length so here's a nice one from Wikipedia!

 

Texel- (31/05)

What is Texel (or Tessel if you're Dutch)?

It's 1 of the 5 inhabited Dutch Wadden Sea Islands, by far the largest and the most touristy (hence all the Germans!) of them all.


Our campsite was on the west side of the island in the village of De Koog where the beach is what draws the crowds. Awaiting on a bike repair we took full advantage of it's sunny coastline and soaked up some sun whilst wandering around the town. It was then with reluctance that we headed back to Den Helder for an afternoon crossing, making some progress along the borders of North Holland before setting up camp for the night.  

To Den Helder- (30/05)

The aim of Day 2 was to complete the 65kms to Den Helder in time to cross over to one of NL’s best kept secrets…but more on that later. Still hugging the coast (LF1) we made it through yet more dunes and thankfully the paths were a little more bike friendly. However having arrived on the island of Texel after a 30 minute boat journey our bikes seemed determined to create problems of their own making. These were to plague us for the rest of the trip. That said, with the help of a German couple we still made it to our campsite before dark. Germans were a-plenty on the island and boy were we glad of it this time round.  

Where do I begin!?- (29/05)

After flying solo, meeting some friends and sorting out what was going where in our bikes and rucksacks I was ready for my twin’s arrival. Starting in Noordwijk along LF1* it wasn't long before we met what was to become our trip's third companion, wind. The in your face kind. Journeying in and out of the dunes that run along the North Sea we passed through the beautiful Zuid Kennemerland (Nature Park) and spotted a fair few animals up close who didn't seem at all fussed by the conditions! Setting up our tent for the first time proved surprisingly easy and sleep was not an issue, after our first 60km we needed it. Not a bad start to the adventure...        

*LF = Langefiets (ie. the long cycle paths!)